The recent Outdoor Retailer Summer Market was bigger than ever, and
generated a positive buzz among most attendees. Although there was no
single product or trend that was hailed as “the next big thing,” there
were a few overarching themes that trickled-and on occasion gushed-into
all footwear product categories.
In light of worldwide concerns surrounding rising fuel costs and global
warming, it is no surprise that one of the most significant trends at
the show was a focus on eco-friendly footwear and sustainable business
practices. While the eco-movement has been gaining momentum for the
past few seasons in the core outdoor footwear market, it is now making
significant inroads in the casual outdoor and mountain lifestyle
footwear categories, as well. This was apparent in the growing number
of shoes-and often, entire collections-featuring eco-friendly materials
such as hemp, bamboo, vegetable-tanned leathers, natural rubbers, and
construction methods using earth-friendly glues and solvents.
Timberland, Keen, Mion, Simple, Teva, The North Face, Merrell,
Patagonia, Ahnu and El Naturalista are some of the many companies
making such an effort.
It is no secret that the industry is concerned about boosting youth
participation in the outdoors, and there is ample evidence suggesting
that kids participation habits are quite different from those of their
elders. Consequently, younger consumers have different product needs.
According to Jay Steere, Timberlands VP global product management,
outdoor performance, “For the Millennial generation, sports are more
communal-its not about the expedition, its about the session. They
are driven by the discovery of new sports that fit in with
close-to-home recreation. Their outdoors is the frontcountry, not the
backcountry.”
This demographic, which he calls “the outdoor blender customer,” is
under age 30, has blended ethnicities, is multi-branded, socially
aware, communally involved, and values the outdoors as a great place to
play. This blending of outdoor and action sports sensibilities has
resulted in a variety of footwear incarnations, the most prevalent
three groupings being climbing/skate, hiking/cycling, and casual
outdoor/action sports lifestyle.
A new category of climbing/skate shoes, which combine sticky rubber
outsoles with skate shoe aesthetics (such as padded tongues and collars
and abrasion-resistant uppers) are a response to the nascent sport of
Parkour, which has gained much of its recognition via the Internet.
Parkour, also known as freerunning, was invented by David Belle in
France. Participants are called “Traceurs.” At Five Ten, founder,
president and chief designer Charles Cole reports that serious Parkour
enthusiasts have been steadily seeking out Five Ten shoes due to their
exceptional ability to stick to a variety of surfaces.
Timberland is also getting in on the Parkour trend with their new 60-40
shoe, part of the companys new b-Life Collective line that boasts a
skate shoe silhouette combined with climbing-grade suede uppers,
wraparound toe guards, and Mad Rock Science Friction sticky rubber
outsoles.
Commuter cycling shoes have a rugged look-in some instances resembling
mid-cut, flat-soled downhill mountain biking shoes, and in other cases
showing off a low-cut, lugged sole design. In this category, Keen has
introduced its Commuter cycling shoe that is SPD-compatible, and
incorporates key features from the companys popular Newport sandal
series.
Casual outdoor/action sports lifestyle shoes combine durable materials
and comfort technologies with popular action sports styling cues such
as vulcanized rubber, artsy motifs and fun colors. Use of eco-friendly
materials is also important. Both Simple and Timberland are delving
deeply into this category, which is no longer a novelty or an
afterthought.
The increasing number of athletic footwear makers now exhibiting at the
show point to a growing interest from specialty running retailers and
the growing popularity of trail running at both outdoor and running
specialty retailers. Athletic companies such as Asics, New Balance and
Brooks have taken stability, traction and underfoot protection cues
from the outdoor specialists, while outdoor companies such as Merrell,
GoLite, The North Face and Montrail have heeded lessons in cushioning,
silhouette, breathability and color from the athletic experts. The
result is a huge range of trail running shoes that fit and perform
well, and also have in-store shelf appeal. No more plain gray sneakers
with stiff, over-lugged bottoms.
Also connected to the eco-friendly trend, is a handcrafted,
artisan-like aesthetic, particularly in womens shoes. Design details
include woven, beaded and laser-etched components; colorful,
texture-rich stitching; and nature-inspired leaf and flower patterns.
By now, most athletic and outdoor footwear makers understand the
importance of womens-specific lasting and technology in both
performance and casual products. Where unisex sizing was once the rule,
it has now become the exception. Now that womens products fit and
perform well as a matter of course, designers have turned their
attention to aesthetics. Even womens-specific, high-end mountaineering
boots offered by such vendors as Asolo, Garmont and Lowa now boast a
feminine touch in both color and pattern.
Travel-friendly/packable footwear is a growing sub-category in the
comfort market, dovetailing with the boom in business for active
vacation and hardcore adventure travel. The trend also ties in with
increasing consumer demand for lightweight, thin-soled, collapsible
yoga-inspired shoes as well as slip-on and easy-on/easy-off footwear.
This year, the industry suffered a weak sandal season caused by a wet
spring, meaning that sales happened from mid- to late-May onward.
Nevertheless, sandals are still a strong part of the business, helping
to fill consumer demand for light, fast, breathable footwear. On the
performance side, cushioning, breathability, fast-drying/fast-draining,
and bold colorways are prevalent. In the casual market, the materials
and aesthetics mirror athletic footwear, offering eco-friendly
attributes, a mix of materials, and natural colors and designs.
