By Judy Leand
For those in the footwear industry with an aversion to boisterous crowds and small, enclosed spaces, the recently concluded WSA show-which was strewn throughout the entire three halls of the Las Vegas Convention Center, as well as in suites at the Venetian Hotel-was just the place to visit. The continuing defection of major exhibitors, combined with the vast acreage of the events footprint, markedly dampened the shows energy level.
The situation promises to be more severe at the next WSA show in February 2009. In fact, Deckers Outdoor (owner of Teva, Ugg, Simple and, as of this past May, Tsubo) and Red Wing brands are just two of the major exhibitors that plan to withdraw from future WSA shows. Similar official announcements from other athletic and outdoor vendors-that readily admit to being enamored with the increasingly popular and bustling Outdoor Retailer show-are sure to follow.
Despite the subdued atmosphere, WSA did highlight some major trends for Spring 2009:
The casual/lifestyle category, which encompasses both outdoor and athletic influences, continues to thrive. Here, comfort technologies-including improved cushioning and breathability-along with cleaner, more sophisticated looks, are key. While still important, vulcanized shoes are not as strong as in past seasons and are now skewing toward a younger teen and pre-teen audience. In the mens casual athletic market, preppy, clean looks are strong; on the casual outdoor side, surf-inspired, deconstructed slip-on footwear is becoming much more widespread. In the womens casual athletic realm, the emphasis is on brightly colored sneakers (yes, pink is still big), as well as prints and patterns; on the casual outdoor side, Mary Jane styles, in both sleek urban and trail-friendly versions, are especially popular.
Multi-sport footwear continues to be a growth category, especially in the outdoor lifestyle arena. Many vendors also report that “shandals” (a shoe/sandal hybrid based on the classic fisherman silhouette) promise to be strong sellers for Spring and Summer 2009 due to their versatility and comfort.
In the realm of materials and treatments, rich, soft leathers, natural fibers such as organic cotton and wool, and texturally interesting embellishments in the form of embroidery, overlays and closure systems, help attract consumer attention and add interest to the shoe wall. In addition, comfort and cushioning technologies, which are a given in performance footwear, are now must-haves in every shoe category.
Eco-friendly footwear-encompassing product as well as manufacturing processes and packaging-continues to evolve. Key features include the use of natural, organic and recycled fabrics and rubbers, vegetable-tanned leathers, and decreased use of glues and solvents (resulting in more interesting stitching patterns).
Of course, many exhibitors used the WSA show to launch new initiatives and product lines.
AHNU
Business at Ahnu continues to be positive, with president and co-founder Jim Van Dine reporting, “The company is just ahead of plan. We exceeded our first-half plan by 10 percent, and the original plan was to more than double the business.” He adds, “Ahnu had great success at Nordstrom and REI. Paragon [in New York City] was also a big success story, and we did well at independents around the country. Now we have a consumer base and positive retail sell-through.” For Spring 09, Ahnu will launch a kids line. “Distribution will include some kids specialty stores, but will mostly keep to the brands regular distribution,” says Van Dine.
HEELYS
This past January, Don Carroll was named president and CEO of Heelys, and his immediate aim has been to improve inventory management and liquidate excess inventory. “We have learned some lessons,” says Carroll. “We are now executing a channel strategy. Today, were in too many doors, so we want to pull back a little bit. Going forward, we want to maker sure that retailers have the right product at the right price. We want to segment the product so it will sell at the full retail price.”
Carroll adds that wheeled product remains Heelys primary focus, and the company is working on sourcing and international sales. “Non-wheeled product has been de-emphasized because we needed to correct our wheeled business. But extending the product portfolio beyond wheeled product is in our future,” he says. Internationally, Heelys products are offered in 70 countries, primarily through distributors. (France and Germany sell direct.)
As industry concerns grow regarding cost pressure and labor issues in China, Carroll points out that Heelys makes its shoes in northern China, whereas most other footwear is produced in southern China. “Prices may increase on January 1 with new sell-in,” says Carroll. “Pricing is coming-you cant avoid it now.” He also mentions a possible longshoremens strike on the West Coast, which could be a huge problem for the industry. “Its a big issue because everything from Asia comes here via the West Coast,” he explains. For this reason, Carroll says that Heelys has taken a precautionary measure of stocking more on-time inventory in its distribution centers.
SPIRA
The performance running brand that was “Banned in Boston” is growing in volume and expanding its customer base, reports Spira CEO Andy Krafsur. The companys fastest-growing category in terms of volume is walking. In Spring 2009, Spira will enter the work and safety market, and in Fall 2009 the company will enter the basketball category (featuring shoes with five springs), as well as the nursing segment. “Well do everything-well let the market tell us where they want us,” says Krafsur. “Its all about the technology.”
KEEN
Building on the success of its SPD-compatible bike sandal launched last year, and in a nod to the growing urban bicycle commuting trend, Keen is introducing the Springwater, a closed-toe SPD-compatible bike shoe. The company will also begin selling directly to consumers online in September.
SKECHERS
At Skechers, key trends include the use of soft, fleecy linings, mixed fabrics in uppers (such as combining natural canvas and corduroy), as well as graphics and prints. At Unltd. by Marc Ecko, shoes for older (late-teens and up) male consumers are clean with a little bit of detail such as stitching, metallics and pinstripes. Styles for younger males ages 12 to 16 are graffiti-, tattoo- and art-inspired. On the womens side, which targets 14- to 18-year-olds, bold colors and logo-driven treatments drive the market.
Zoo York, which began as a pure skate brand, is now a mainstay in the skate lifestyle footwear category. According to Robert Gigante, VP of sales for Unltd. by Marc Ecko, Zoo York, and 310, “Skate is down-trending, so we need to go beyond skate specialty stores. Zoo York [footwear] is more of a lifestyle brand, but with a strong skate heritage. As we continue to open up categories, we will get into faster [more fashion-oriented] shops.” He also notes that the business overall is expected to grow in the next year.
At Punkrose and Public Royalty-two brands comprising a 4-year-old company that Skechers acquired in May-the focus remains junior, hip, and sneaker-driven. Distribution includes punk rock, urban and skate specialty shops, as well as better department stores including Nordstrom.
SIMPLE SHOES
At Simple Shoes, the focus remains on sustainability and eco-friendly footwear. The company has also formed a partnership with The Ryde, a Laguna, CA-based company founded in 2002 that focuses on creating art-driven, surf-inspired apparel. The partnership has so far resulted in two Simple ecoSNEAKS shoe styles, as well as a certified organic cotton T-shirt.
