As discussed in the last issue of The B.O.S.S. Report, there was a marked trend at Outdoor Retailer Summer Market toward improving existing product lines by adding useful features. The words “hybrid,” “crossover” and “versatile” have become a mantra for most exhibitors.

 

This week, BOSS looks at the outdoor lifestyle footwear market.
There was an abundance of multitasking models designed to go from trail to sidewalk, river to rock face, bicycle to boulder field, city street to airport concourse and, of course, living room to coffee shop-or any combination thereof.

 

As in the performance realm, lightweight/breathable materials, quick-drying capabilities, and comfort/cushioning technologies are crucial parts of the mix, and are combined with fun colors, bold patterns, and in many cases, convenient slip-on styling. Two of the most popular silhouettes-which seem to have become requisites in nearly all casual collections-are deconstructed slip-ons for men and Mary Janes for women.


“Consumers are buying fewer pairs of shoes, but when they do buy, they want something special-forward-thinking designs and bright colors,” said Seth Cobb, VP and GM of Merrell. Here is a snapshot of trends, fresh approaches and new products seen on the show floor.


The growing influence of action sports…


As a few savvy footwear vendors are discovering, the outdoor and action sports markets are gradually drawing closer. “Retailers are looking for something to pull in younger customers, and outdoor sports themselves have evolved,” said Merrell’s Cob.  “People are interested in ‘park and play’ instant gratification such as a small, challenging bouldering problem [that can be completed in hours] as opposed to a multi-day climb. This is prompting us to look at how consumers use the end-product.”  Cobb reports that the Outventure performance line is Merrell’s fastest-growing footwear segment, and within that, women’s performance is the fastest-growing line. “Women’s performance is a strong trend, a big business, and a high-growth category,” he said.
Like Merrell, its grown-up sibling, Patagonia Footwear also recognizes the increasing influence of action sports.                                  

 

The company focused on offering versatile, comfortable shoes that blend styles. According to Jamie Barbor, Patagonia Footwear’s national sales manager, the company’s business is up 25% YTD and the shoes are doing particularly well at REI, where the men’s program will be in 100 doors in Spring 2009. The push for this season is to work with key retailers to install Patagonia Footwear concept shops and focal points on the shoe wall. Seven concept shops have been placed so far this year, and the company expects to have 20 by the end of 2008.  In other initiatives, the company is launching a trail running program with a gender-specific platform. The shoes will feature stability and protection. In keeping with its eco-friendly ethos, Patagonia has launched a resoling program with Portland, OR-based Mountain Soles, which will receive referrals for resoling products in Patagonia’s hiking, approach, honeycomb and Big Honeycomb lines.


Five Ten has changed his company’s tagline to “Five Ten: Where action meets the outdoors” In a bid to grow its brand beyond rock climbing and into larger action sports markets like downhill mountain bike racing (and flat pedal riding) and freerunning (also known as Parkour), said the company’s founder, president and chief designer Charles Cole.


On the performance front…


On the performance footwear front, core running shoe makers-including New Balance, Brooks, Asics and Saucony-continue seeking to expand their reach by establishing a firm base in the trail running and outdoor multi-sport categories. In fact, the trail running market has also drawn traditional outdoor boot makers such as Vasque, Asolo, Lowa and Scarpa, and is attracting newcomers such as Oboz, END and Patagonia Footwear.


Vasque is focusing on performance trail running and women’s-specific product, said Sales Manager Stephen Spencer. Sixteen new footwear styles will be available for Spring 2009. The Aether Tech trail running line is designed to be light and fast, and to easily transition from trail to paved surface.


Portland, OR-based END, whose name is an acronym for “Environmentally Neutral Design,” is focusing on producing road running and trail running footwear with a focus on sustainability. To accomplish this, END uses water-based glues; one-piece outsoles, midsoles and uppers; and a simple, minimalist design that is lighter and therefore less expensive to produce. Retail prices range from $65 to $95. The target consumers are 23- to 28-year-olds concerned with recycling and global warming. End co-founder Ben Finklea notes that the brand is now being carried at REI, and in January 2009 the line will be in 100 specialty running and outdoor stores.

 

In November 2009, END will also be offered online at zappos.com, backcountry.com, Luke’s Locker and Rock Creek Outfitters.  “We wanted to bring high-performance and sustainability together,” explains Finklea. “It will take us about five years to get there, but our goal is to innovate and be a thought leader.”


Eager to join the growing ‘barefoot running” movement based upon natural motion, Ecco is introducing Biom, a collection of performance road and trail running shoes that the company hails as “category-changing running product.” The footwear, which features a close-to-the-ground silhouette, comes in three platforms. The “A” platform is designed for elite athletes who typically run six-minute miles or faster. The “B” platform is designed for 9.5-minute-per-mile runners, and the “C” platform is for occasional runners who complete a mile in 10 minutes or more. Each platform consists of one textile and one leather style. The “A” platform will be specifically for men and will include two insoles, one each for training and racing. The “B” and “C” platforms will be available in gender-specific versions.  The “A” and “B” platform road running shoes will be launched in March 2009. The “C” platform, as well as trail running shoes, will follow in Fall 2009.



The textile models will be retail priced at $195, and the leather models will be $220. Distribution will target running specialty stores. Biom will not be sold into the company’s four biggest accounts, which are Nordstrom, Ecco retail stores, The Walking Company and Dillard’s, said David Helter, brand manager of Ecco USA. Nor will the collection be sold online.


The weekend warrior and adventurous tourist…


For Spring 2009, Timberland’s emphasis is on multi-sport and multiple-use occasions. In particular, the Ledge Series recognizes that many consumers are looking for “on the floor” comfort rather than “on the trail” comfort (the difference being the degrees of support, stability and stiffness needed to accommodate particular activities). The line is being promoted as “wear now, play now” and is intended for the weekend warrior. The company is also reasserting its hiking heritage with its new Washington Summit Series boot line for Fall 2009.


ExOfficio, known for its adventure travel and fishing apparel, is entering the footwear market with its Comfort3 collection. The line is intended to offer consumers three key aspects of comfort: physical, emotional, and value. The line will include about nine models each for men and women, retail priced from $100 to $150.


Categories include Destinations (adventure travel), amphibious (Adventure), and Trapper (men’s hiking-inspired). ExOfficio is treating the footwear as an accessory to its apparel, and distribution will focus on the company’s existing core accounts (such as The Walking Company), as well as select independents familiar with the brand. The first ship date is Jan. 15, 2009.


Wenger reports success with the soft launch of its new footwear line this past January, noting that 100% of 30,000 pairs ordered have been delivered, and reorders are already coming in. A hard launch at ORSM, which included a towering billboard over the main entrance to the Salt Palace, boasted 30 styles (up from eight offerings in January), including technical and lifestyle models.

 

To complement the footwear, Wenger is now ready to launch a sock line for Spring 2009 (to be in-store by February), which is also being produced by Novato, CA-based Established Brands, an official licensee of Wenger Licensing. The socks will be made in Italy and will be offered in about 12 styles, available in ped, crew and boot length versions. The distribution for the socks will be broader than for the footwear, and will target technical and lifestyle retailers.