Summer Market was a feast of emerging footwear innovations from a number of vendors, but two clear directions were evident as companies worked to broaden their base of consumers or extend their brands appeal beyond its intended primary use. Much of the trend to Multi-sport, Multifunction, Fastpacking, or Adventure Sport footwear is really reflective of recent trends seen by the equipment companies and the requirements for lightweight, durable product for a days activity or a quick overnight.
BOSS talked last week about the, the move to lighter, faster footwear with traditional outdoor footwear elements that was seen at most footwear vendors. We also saw a very defined move to the Water Sports side of the business that came from two different directions, with some of the companies coming at the product from their traditional position in boat shoes (think Sebago, Timberland, Sperry), while others came at it from their roots in water sandals (think Teva, Keen, Bite). And some companies that had no real history in Water Sports footwear came at the new product from their own angle, utilizing elements that set them apart on land.
Perhaps the biggest undertaking in footwear was evident at Merrell, a company that turned the industry — and the casual footwear market - on its ear with the launch of the Jungle Moc. In a sense, Merrell faces the direct opposite problem than many of the other footwear companies in the industry as the attempt to get back to their roots as a technical boot company.
It was clear that management felt they needed a major makeover in their functional product offering and made a solid move with their Continuum program. BOSS would agree that launching out a few new styles was going to get lost in the mix and the re-positioning would fall short of the companys goal. Management told BOSS that “any product that touches dirt was tossed out” of the Outventure line.
Merrell started with 21 new outsoles developed in partnership with Vibram to support the new program that focuses on distinct requirements in their Hiking, Multi-sport, Active Speed, and Aqua Sports segments.
The piece that hit home for us most was the companys clear definition of end use for each and every product in the Outventure category. Color was used to differentiate product use rather than for fashions sake. The concept gives the retailer the ability to mix and match a presentation and understand a products intended use easier through the new matrix. The line could have been a lot larger with color-ups, but Merrell instead focused on a reason-to-exist position with each and every SKU.
If were talking about pure marketing power play of the week, it has to go to Salomon and their GCS Adventure Racing shoe. If you judge the uniqueness and viability of a new technology by the number of product people from other companies that tried to get their hands on the product, this was a winner. What had everyone talking was a unique floating plate in the heel of the shoe that adjusted to strike angle and other elements that affect the user on various surfaces encountered in Adventure Racing. BOSS counted designers and product people from at least three other companies that were hovering over the shoe during our twenty minutes in the booth.
If were talking best new entry in footwear, it had to go to Helly Hansen, yes, Helly Hansen. The recent popularity of the Water Sports, or Boat Shoe, category has given the company license to enter the footwear market through their traditional base in sailing. Enter it they did with a broad presentation of footwear that crept onto land as well. Like all Water Sports product we saw at the show, the Helly product came equipped with the obligatory perforated insole and drainage holes in the midsole/outsole, but they hit on a strong fashion element here and a few tech features as well that made them a draw for other product people as well.
Timberland also took their heritage in boat shoes and turned their attention to the performance end of the spectrum with the Plunge Tech and Androscoggin Sandal.
They break the $100 barrier with the Eurus competitive sailing shoe as well. Color is the key along with function in the brands waterproof Trail Lizard trail runner with Gote-Tex XCR membrane and the Fastpack Acuate Low for speed hiking. The company has made its stability plate a central feature of its product function and design in the outdoor segment, making it a redline through its product design for each category.
Keen was again one of the hottest stories at the show, and has really made tremendous strides since last years Summer Market. Company VP and General Manager Jim Van Dine told BOSS that the company was really just a shell of its current structure at last years show.
In fact, Van Dine said he left the show last year and immediately went back to his office and started hiring people to handle the influx of orders. “We opened 500 accounts in three months,” said Van Dine. “I played Sales Manager, Credit Manager, and Customer Service Manager in getting everyone of them set up.” Fast forward one year and the company is a fully functioning operation with all rep territories filled, a new sales manager in place, new systems to track orders, and a customer service department to service the retailer.
The company certainly isnt resting on its laurels after a very successful year. The line now sports four distinct categories of product plus a very successful childrens program.
Probably the most innovative product came out of the Waterfront category as Keen succeeded in its attempt to build a three-point sandal with its Monterey product and still maintain its distinctive rubber toe guard design feature. Van Dine said it was one of the most challenging design efforts for the company and they saw it as a big win when a designer brought it to the table.
Keen also expanded its Trailhead segment to six styles for Spring 05, putting to rest once and for all that this is a sandal company. The Blvd collection has Angel Martinez written all over it and extends the brand further into the casual “urban outdoor” segment of the market. The clogs and mocs are very string here, but Keen hit another homerun with their Bronx shoe and Monterey sandal. The Market Street collection was built as a womens fashion line, but still has all the elements that makes Keen, well, Keen.
A number of people pointed us to the Crocs booth in the tent, with some calling them the “next Keen”. They are not. Since weve been told by our mothers since an early age not to say anything at all if we cant say anything nice, we can only say that they were certainly cheaper than other sandals.
Teva isnt resting on its laurels either, as we saw a newly designed booth that now houses over 300 SKUs of footwear. Deckers has really cranked this baby up since acquiring the brand from Mark Thatcher and is doing all manner of things with the brand. One key item we saw was the $90 X-1 product, which is technically in the Hydro category, but is actually a hybrid of water and terrain product.
Editors Note — Look for Part III of the BOSS Summer Market Review next week…
