Adidas Outdoor athletes Sasha DiGiulian and Carlo Traversi became on Aug. 29 the first Americans, and DiGiulian the first female, to free climb Magic Mushroom (7c+), one of the most difficult routes on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland.
After spending weeks with multiple attempts on the wall overcoming changing and challenging weather conditions including snow and ice, the team completed the 20-pitch climb in three days.
“This has been a long journey, made longer by Mother Nature, and we have had to stay strong, positive and open minded,” said DiGiulian. “Free climbing on the Eiger, and standing atop one of the most recognized routes on this iconic peak is an incredible feeling, and one I am grateful to have achieved. Carlo was the perfect partner. I could not have done this without him and his optimistic outlook and steady reinforcement.”
Three-time US National Champion and 2011 Overall World Champion DiGiulian, 22, is the first North American woman to climb grade 9a (5.14d), recognized as the hardest rated sport climb ever achieved by a female, which she has done twice. Traversi, 27, is a two-time U.S. sport climbing national champion, a 10-time member of the U.S. National Climbing Team, and has amassed an impressive list of first ascents, including the 2011 ascent of The Game (V15), considered to be one of the hardest boulder problems in the world.
“Sasha and Carlo have trained extremely hard for this, and we congratulate them both on this great accomplishment especially after weathering so many adversities,” said Greg Thomsen, managing director, adidas Outdoor US. “They remained committed and focused, and continue to amaze us with their vision and passion for the sport and natural beauty of rock climbing. They are true inspirations.”
Magic Mushroom was first opened by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz in September of 2007, and on August 17, 2011, Schäli completed the first one-day free ascent. Stephan Siegrist and Ralf Weber completed the first redpoint ascent in June of 2009.
