When Ahnu Footwear was launched in 2007, concerns for the environment and social responsibility ranked as high as innovative product design. The mythological Celtic goddess of balance and well-being inspires the Ahnu brand name, and company co-founder Jim Van Dine describes how that balance informs business decisions.
“The wellspring for the brand position and our values comes from the same place,” says Van Dine. “The inspiration comes from within. Great brands reflect the company and the people in the company, and the people in the company reflect the brand. We are are acutely aware of our responsibility to the planet and its citizens. Rather than try to pretend to adopt a position, its an outgrowth of who we are and how we want to do business.”
The best intentions to create environmentally friendly products often falter when faced with the realities of a limited supply of appropriate materials and higher costs. Those factors have not deterred Van Dine.
“You are always in a position to make the best decision available to you. Five or 10 years from now, there will be a lot more products available and the market will be larger to accept this position,” explains Van Dine. “As the market becomes more concerned [about the environment], that increases demand and supply of materials and manufacturing techniques. Theres never a right or wrong time to make the best decision.”
Jacqueline Lenox, Ahnu co-founder and VP of product and marketing, points out that a recent increase in the availability of recycled materials has helped the company execute its mission. “There have definitely been more options over the last year. Two years ago, we were asking our suppliers, Do you have this? Do you have that? and still hearing, No, we are working on it. Now the manufacturers are pitching their environmentally friendly materials to us.”
Van Dine reports that Ahnus business philosophy goes beyond using recycled materials in its footwear. “Our position isnt necessarily green. Thats just one aspect of it. Social responsibility is where we come from. That includes trying to reduce our carbon footprint and being as conscious of the environment as possible,” he says. “Equally important is the umbrella issue of being responsible in all the decisions we make, whether they are about our factories, our vendors, our customers, our employees or our business partners.”
Lenox adds, “As important for us as our brand story is, its not just the environment but also the people who live in the environment. The strategy weve taken from the beginning includes social responsibility.”
Ahnus products are manufactured at one of only 31 footwear factories in the world with SA8000 accreditation. Social Accountability International creates standards that foster social responsibility in business.
Van Dine comments, “There are only a small number of factories that have received that accreditation. Im proud to say Ive personally inspected these factories more than once. Ive walked all the manufacturing lines and looked at sample rooms, testing rooms and dormitories. Were not in 100 factories and not making a billion dollars worth of shoes. Were certainly take a thorough and responsible approach to it.”
According to Lenox, retailers are paying more attention to environmental issues when making purchasing decisions. “When we present the line now, price points are still critical and performance features are still critical. But when we can add in the green story, whether its charged bamboo lining or hemp materials, there is a nice kind of Ah ha! Thats definitely having a positive impact with retailers,” she says.
Van Dine suggests that the outdoor industry as a whole is making progress in finding a balance between business and social responsibility. “The green aspect does get adequate attention and I think there is a big movement in the outdoor industry regarding social responsibility,” he says. “As an industry, its natural for us to first think about our planet and our playground. I think that is generally moving in the right direction.”
Still, Van Dine believes Ahnu is on the leading edge of the broader social responsibility approach. “Were earlier than some. Were not trying to create a market position within that-were just doing what we think is responsible,” he explains. “If, in our small way, we can help create an awareness that ultimately creates demand-and that ultimately shifts the way other industries and larger manufacturers operate-we can feel proud of ourselves. I think the outdoor industry as a whole can be proud that we do a good job, compared to other industries, in leading the charge in taking care of the planet and its inhabitants.”
The Ahnu business philosophy is attracting attention from outside the outdoor industry, as well. In May, Van Dine was a guest lecturer at the Stanford University Graduate School of Business, where he gave a lecture titled, “The Sustainable Entrepreneur: Idea to Marketplace.”
As the concept of environmental sustainability catches on, Van Dine expects there to be questions about commitment and authenticity. “The marketing platform of being green has gotten awfully crowded and is filled with a wide variety of companies that have different levels of commitment,” he observes. “Being the eternal optimist, creating a larger market for being sensitive to the environment is a good thing. I believe that in a short time, you wont get credit for that anymore, and thats not a bad thing.”
