The winter apparel categories are seeing many of the same trends BOSS noticed at Summer Market, with an emphasis on fashion and fabrics. Many companies are using unique or proprietary fabrics, along with ‘high-fashion’ inspired designs to differentiate their brands from the masses and set their company apart as a true, premium, lifestyle and/or performance brand.

Most of the larger apparel brands are looking at line extensions as a means for growth, with many of them expanding into the SnowSports category. This trend could be fueling the previously mentioned ‘high-fashion’ movement as technical outdoor companies try to compete in the fashion-conscious ski and snowboard markets.

Mountain Hardwear is looking at viable line extensions in order to fuel future growth and to that end they have hired three new product managers. The company sees SnowSports, a category it launched last winter, as its biggest opportunity and has expanded this line accordingly. In order to stay true to its core market, MTH is targeting the backcountry and “mid-country,” or lift served backcountry, skiers. Mike Wallenfels, newly appointed president of MTH said that SnowSports will not be the only line extension out of MTH, but provided no hints about what’s coming next.

The second major initiative at Mountain Hardwear this year is a renewed focus on the women’s market. Wallenfels said that the company is really looking at women’s design in a different manner. Previously they would build a men’s line and add several women’s pieces that were complimentary. Now, the company is going to fabric companies and building from the ground up with different fabric selections for their female customers. 65% of the company’s growth in insulated outerwear booking came from the women’s line.

The finale for MTH at OR was their redesigned hat and glove line. Gloves now range from $59 to $149 and are divided into three categories-Alpine, SnowSports and Softshell. The hat line has added pieces to match MTH’s ‘Poodle’ and ‘Monkey Pro’ fleece jackets, as well as a new line of wool hats. Wallenfels said that the company’s biggest area of growth was accessories.

Adidas Outdoor returned to the show this year for the first time since Fall 2003. A key question on the minds of show goers was how adidas and Salomon would be able to both exist in the outdoor marketplace. According to category manager Laurence Motola, this feat will be accomplished through brand positioning with adidas Outdoor focusing on the 25 and younger crowd, attempting to draw new customers into the outdoor world through adidas’ recognizable brand, while Salomon maintains its place in the marketplace with outdoor veterans.

Still, a number of products looked very familiar…

Salomon is placing a heavy focus on its women’s initiative, dubbed the ‘Women Will Program.’ The company has brought in several women designers and has targeted three key demographics which will be addressed separately. The largest segment is called ‘The Lifer.’ Making up 65% of the women’s market, it is made up of family oriented women who are also life-time outdoor enthusiasts. Next in line is the ‘Ripper Girl,’ which makes up 20% of the market. This demographic is made up of the extreme athletes who are always trying to push to the next level. Finally, 15% of the women’s market, according to Salomon, is the ‘Mountain Girl,’ or enthusiast outdoor participant. Salomon’s women’s program will be supported by a full marketing, PR, and advertising campaign. The end goal, according to Salomon N.A. CEO James Curleigh, is to make Salomon the, “…brand most synonymous with success in the women’s market.”

Curleigh expects “high single digit” Salomon brand growth in North America and “strong double digit” growth in the women’s market.

Mammut finished a banner 2004 fiscal year in North America with 25% brand growth (See BOSS_0503). The company’s former Sales Manager, Noah Robertson, finished up his days as a Mammut employee on the last day of SIA. CEO Bill Supple said that in the near-term, he will not be hiring a new National Sales Manager, instead, he has shuffled around positions and now George Wisell will take over sales coordination for footwear and apparel, while Dave Furman will be in charge of hardgoods, backpacks, and bags.

Hardgoods, Packs & Tents

For the past few years, backpack, tent, and sleeping bag companies have been focusing on multi-use, one pack does it all designs, but now the tide seems to be turning the other way. Many companies involved heavily in these categories are launching use-specific models for climbing, backcountry skiing, or even the urban environment.

Indigo Equipment is quickly gaining some momentum in the pack market, and has started the season with a new, larger booth at ORWM. Dealers were telling the company that the only drawback to their pack line was the weight, so the entire line was redesigned, shaving some serious grams in the process. The Company’s best selling model, the ‘Eleven,’ lost 11 ounces.

Indigo has also re-designed its ‘lariat strap,’ a device used to attach skis to the pack. This latest iteration is much cleaner than the previous versions, with just as much functionality.

Indigo’s newest pack, the ‘Rev,’ is designed for the backcountry skier. The main Redline running through the company’s entire pack offering is the unique ‘Café Pocket’ that allows easy access to water and a light rain shell while on the move. Among other use-specific features, the Rev’s Café Pocket is larger than other models, allowing backcountry skiers to store their climbing skins as well.

Osprey has introduced a new line for the company-alpine climbing packs. The ‘Morphine’ series includes four models which bring Osprey’s signature sleek lines and clean design to the high mountains. The new packs Incorporate features like leashless ice-axe holders, shovel pockets, and a trimmed down light-weight suspension system. The line is much more use-specific and much more streamlined than many of the other climbing oriented packs in Osprey’s product offering.

The company has also introduced three new “Urban Day Tools,” with all the features needed for a day on campus or in the office, including an integrated MP-3 pocket and head-phone routing.

Gregory’s VP of Sales and Marketing, Paul Gagner, told BOSS that he is seeing the shift to use-specific packs throughout his product offering as well as the industry. Gagner believes this trend is caused by a strong base of enthusiasts, and declining casual participant numbers.

Gregory’s sales for 2004 were up 10% over 2003 in a market that declined an estimated 10-15%. The company is not taking future growth for granted; Gagner told BOSS that the company has reconfigured its R&D department. Gregory will also be displaying a new patent-pending suspension system and an expanded women’s line at OR Summer Market for the 2006 retail season.

Gregory will have one more surprise in store for the Summer Market-a new booth. Gagner said that after ten years, the company has finally allocated money for an upgrade.

Gagner also had some news about Gregory’s new owners, Armor Holdings (See BOSS_0446). He said that when the acquisition initially took place, Armor was considering unrolling Gregory from its parent company, Bianchi, and launching an “Outdoor Group.” Now, Gagner said that Armor has decided to leave Gregory alone for the short-term and, “let us do our thing.”

Gagner said, “Ultimately, I do want Armor to get more involved and start talking about more acquisitions.”
While Mountain Hardwear did not bring any packs to OR Winter Market, company President, Mike Wallenfels did confirm rumors circulating that the company is working on a new line of backpacks. Former Osprey designer, Eric Hammerschlag, has joined the MTH team to work on projects in tents, sleeping bags, and of course, backpacks.

Kelty’s new president, Kenny Ballard, has taken over in the new role without missing a beat. He told BOSS that since his promotion, there have been no real changes to the fundamental vision behind the company. This is mainly because everyone at Kelty played a role in defining that vision.

According to Ballard, the primary forces driving that vision are a diverse and dynamic market; the concept of “base-camping” to accomplish several “done in a day” activities in one trip; and the light and fast aspect. The company is focusing on affordable innovation and kids categories to get more people into the outdoors.

Big Agnes is quickly gaining the reputation of a true innovator in the bag and tent categories. The company is seeing many of the same trends that pack manufacturers are seeing. Many consumers are collecting a “quiver of sleeping bags” and pairing these with a ‘base-camping’ tent, and a ‘fast & light’ tent to get more activities done in a day-or a long weekend.

Kiva introduced its Total Travel System, comprised of four uprights, two duffels, and two general bags. In addition to this baggage system, the company brought Gabel Trekking Poles hoping to tap into the growing population of Nordic Walkers. Kiva also will be debuting a new line for Rick Steves. The travel-show host has signed a licensing agreement with Kiva to produce a line of travel bags with his name on them.

Jet Boil added the Pot Support to its line this year. The support allows the Jet Boil stove to be used with pots and pans. Jet Boil has expanded into the European market, selling in about ten countries worldwide. Here at home, the Jet Boil stove is reportedly the best-selling camping stove at both REI and EMS, taking 50% of the categories sales.

Black Diamond is seeing the level of sophistication in the hardgoods market increase rapidly, and is reacting appropriately. The company has grown its offering, and as a result, innovating over several categories becomes more difficult each year. Peter Metcalf, BD’s President, told BOSS that to alleviate some of these pressures the company recently restructured. In the last 12 months, the company has completed its HR changes and created a project engineering staff that serves as a bridge between innovation and production.

Metcalf said that he is seeing a shift towards ski mountaineering and semi-technical peak bagging. Both skins and skis are seeing “healthy double digit growth” in the U.S., while Europe sees much of the same. Metcalf said that it is gratifying to see healthy pockets of youth activity in telemark skiing, especially in the terrain park.

On the climbing end of the company, BD has changed its slant on the youth market. Previously, BD had stated that their ‘Franklin’ brand would be used to address the youth market, but now Metcalf feels that this move is “dating” the Black Diamond brand and giving it an older feel. In 2006, BD will “move out” of the Franklin brand.


Editor’s Note —

Look for next week’s issue of The B.O.S.S. Report when we highlight the footwear and apparel companies at OR Winter Market 2005.