Outdoor Footwear Designers Eye Durability and Versatility

Many brands are focused on building exceptionally tough and durable products as a means to reduce their environmental footprint, but also because consumers are demanding a higher value-to-price ratio than ever before. Many of the companies The B.O.S.S. Report spoke with feel that the consumer is willing to pay a little more for footwear, but only if they will get more life out of it.

The same is true for versatility. Many brands are launching more versatile footwear than ever before. For 2010, this means going beyond the old adage “from bouldering to bar” and creating footwear that can act as a climbing approach shoe, a trail running shoe, a backpacking shoe, and even pass at work on Monday.

Keen Inc.’s Pedal Commuter collection has particularly taken off. For Spring 2010, it introduced for the first time a closed-toe cycling shoe as well as a cycling-specific sock. A new bike-ready bag, the Steel Bridge, has a waterproof liner and hood for weather protection with a sleeve holds most 17-inch laptops. Several fresh updates have been added for urban adventures both on and off the bike as part of its cycling push.

“We're encouraging people to create, play and care but we're also giving them specific products to do it with and the whole Pedal series really represents the hybrid life for us,” said James Curleigh, president and CEO.  “We went from a one product interesting sideshow to having a core range of commuter products which has become nothing less than a sensation for Keen.”

“Six years ago we started with this shoe called the Newport and from then we've seen the Newport affect get stronger, wider and deeper every year,” said Curleigh. “But going into spring 2010 for sure, it's the single biggest sandal evolution we've ever had at Keen and that's coming through multiple style editions in men's, women's and kid's.

At Asolo, a key introduction for Spring 2010 is its PowerLite boot series, which are 54% lighter than Asolo’s Energy series, first released in 2002. Enhanced fit and comfort is garnered through the dual-density lasting board which gives support and flex where needed most along with an integrated heel counter that offers  and a more durable construction.  On the trail running side, the Asolo Predator and Asolo Dominator underwent a thorough re-design.

The new Propulsion Plus design is a “very lightweight” trail running collection which features a TPU support mechanism that assists in edging control, rear stabilization, and EVA “decompression.” 
Jason Stadler, marketing and information services manager for Asolo and Lowe Alpine, said although lightweight continues to be a strong trend in the marketplace, it's critical that the product still is durable. “You want to make sure you're still putting in the components that are key to providing proper fit and support during the activity,” said Stadler. “You're not going to wear a trail shoe with an 80-pound pack. So as you move up the range, you want additional support and addition shock management systems.”

Terrasoles, launched in 2007, continues to gain attention by targeting the void that most people face when transitioning from their active footwear to something more casual yet functional. “When we started we made shoes that are lightweight and comfortable,” said Jerry Hemphill, brand president. “We have removable insoles, we use materials that are earth friendly. But we're all about comfort and how the product wears.”

Hemphill also believes Terrasole's price point – under $50 at retail – is in the “sweet spot” in the comfort footwear space but he believes consumers are ultimately responding to the footwear's comfort features and eco-friendly focus. “We use materials that aren’t being used out there like recycled microfiber fleece and organic cotton,” said Hemphill. “We're doing very well with regard to the recession.”

SCARPA has added more than 30 new men’s and women’s models to its collection across the trail running, hiking, backpacking, mountaineering and rock climbing lines. “For SCARPA North America, there have been a couple of focal points,” said Kim Miller, CEO. “One has been broadening our trail and trail running offerings in the Alpine Cross collection, which now consists of more than a dozen models, not including men’s and women’s categories. And the other is to continue to lead the way in more technical climbing footwear by taking our mountaineering and rock lines a couple notches up in terms of the technology they offer for climbers.”

“In trail and trail-running, one model in particular in the new SCARPA line, the Epic, epitomizes the trend we’ve been seeing for a little while now of people going big in the mountains in lighter footwear. We’re seeing people interested in light footwear that fuses the best features from trail running, hiking and approach. The Epic takes a trail running platform and tailors it with features for people who are hiking, doing approaches and/or carrying a pack with a good bit of weight.”

In the mountaineering category, SCARPA has created four new models of boot for alpine climbing that are more shock absorbing, lighter weight and more technical in terms of their climbing ability than anything else available in their class.

Finally, the new Alpine Cross models, including the Epic, the Pursuit (a trail runner) and the Moraine (a light hiker), encompass the new SCARPA ‘Planet Friendly’ program, which means they are built largely with recycled materials and use EcoPure in their construction. EcoPure is an additive that helps the midsoles break down under landfill conditions in roughly 20 years, versus centuries for EVA without EcoPure added.

At Merrell, a new line of hiking and trekking boots in the Outbound line are due out in 2010. They are designed for three-season use below the snowline. The Trail Mix line will include two new trail shoes with a supporting apparel program. Also new is the Move collection of approach-inspired multi-sport shoes, as well as the Water-Sport line of amphibious shoes and sandals.

“In changing times, people find comfort in the familiar but embrace the best of what technology has to offer,” said Yahn Lebo, product line manager for Merrell’s Outventure program.

In the women’s categories, the “Performance Made Beautiful” collection features women’s nautical inspired Zenith slip-ons. “We continue to incorporate new materials and details that will translate into everyone’s everyday wardrobe while still offering all day comfort,” said Snowy Mellish, Merrell’s product line manager.

Merrell also debuted a redesigned children’s footwear line with the tagline “Leap ‘n Land for your Wild Things” in playful animal designs. Features include non-marking sticky rubber outsoles, Merrell Air Cushion in the heel, and antimicrobial footbeds.

Lebo said multi-sport and versatility continues to be a key trend but he believes consumers continue to trust the brand for its fit, durability and reputation for technological innovations. “Given all that's going on in the economy, we've done remarkably well as we continue to hone in on that multi-sport category,” said Lebo. “In terms of what we see as being key drivers for our business, the consumer keeps telling us that fit is  huge. It doesn’t' matter if it's Fusion or Outventure lifestyle pieces or performance pieces.  They like our comfort we put in our shoes and then our durability and then they want the new technology.”

At Patagonia Footwear, one surprise for some at the Outdoor Retailer show was the introduction of the “Elegance” women’s dress shoe collection. The line includes a closed-toe ballet flat with ankle strap, an open toe sandal with an ankle strap, minimalist sandal with t-strap foot detailing as well as a mid-calf boot. Bill Dodge, general manager of Patagonia Footwear, admitted while some outdoor dealers were “shaking their heads” at the collection, others were receptive and many stores also have some “dress” component on the apparel side to their mix.

Dodge said the line continues to see “significant growth” and continues to benefit in this tough market.

Chaco, which was acquired by Wolverine World Wide in January, introduced a new Pro Series for paddlers with leather and webbing uppers in new laid-back designs.  Chaco also introduced a new Casual Series of sophisticated lifestyle sandals. Wes Allen, sales manager at Chaco, said the overall transition has gone “exceptionally well.” If not for the merger, he estimates that Chaco wouldn't have had product in the stores or even samples to show. In 2009, he said the brand will be generating more orders than it ever has in its history.

Ahnu has been benefiting in product development, quality control and several other areas due to its merger earlier this year with Deckers Corp. Jim Van Dine, president at Ahnu said, “Now we're working with one of the finest organizations really in the world. Deckers makes everything from high-end, expensive fashion boots to $20 flip flops and everything in between. They have tremendous capability and a wonderful staff in China that we have access to for the first time. So we have people there that are 100% devoted and committed to our brand.”

Van Dine said Ahnu had a “great spring” considering the economy. Much of its success has come from a continued good response to biomechanical innovations built around its Neutral Positioning System (NPS) technology.  Ahnu has also been successfully extending the NPS technology beyond trail runners and hikers to items such as an athletic type of wedge. He said Ahnu's looks are proving to be particularly appealing to women, pointing to strength at accounts such as Nordstrom and REI. “We really do a good job of blending fashion and performance,” said Van Dine.

Timberland showcased its Earthkeepers 2.0 boot, the first footwear the company has designed to be disassembled and recycled rather than discarded at the end of its product life. Roughly 80% of the Earthkeeper 2.0 boot can be recycled or re-used. Management also has high hopes for its new Timberland Mountain Athletics collection a new connection with young consumers.

“It's probably one of the most exciting launches we've had in a long time,” said Brian Moore, VP, global men's footwear at Timberland. “We have a long history with young people but we never really made outdoor performance product with young people in mind and the TMA was the first attempt to take our most technical, most high-performance product, but really styling it in a way that's important for young people.”
In particular, the styling blends “pure athletic” sneakers  with outdoor looks and function. “While past generations wanted classic hiking shoes in black and brown, today's youth are jumping to  skate brands or jumping to athletic brands, and industry as a whole  hasn’t been able to target the young consumer,” said Moore. He adds that other outdoor brands are likewise addressing this combination of outdoor/athletic, but he believes Timberland's advantage is its long connection to youth.