Jim Whittaker, the first American to summit Mount Everest and REI’s first full-time employee and the retailer’s former CEO, has passed away at the age of 97.

Whittaker died on Tuesday, April 7, at his home in Port Townsend, WA, according to a family statement.

“Whether at home, in the mountains or at sea, he sought to share adventure, joy and optimism with those around him,” the family shared. “His warmth, humility and belief in the power of nature to bring people together left an enduring legacy of care for our planet and for one another.”

Whittaker’s 1963 ascent of Everest alongside Nawang Gombu came 10 years after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay first scaled the peak. The climb sparked interest in mountaineering in the U.S. and made Whittaker instant fame. He was featured on magazine covers and in demand for public appearances.

In 1978, Whittaker led the first successful U.S. expedition to K2, the second-tallest peak in the world, and in 1990 set a record as the leader of the largest successful Everest expedition. He shared the status of world-class climber with his identical twin, Lou, who led the first American expedition to scale Mount Everest’s north face.

Prior to his first Everest climb, Whittaker had been working for REI since 1955, when he was hired by the Co-Op’s Co-founder, Lloyd Anderson. REI’s popularity surged after Whittaker’s Everest climb, and he went on to lead REI’s business from 1971 to 1979. Its membership grew from nearly 250,000 to over 900,000 during his tenure, as REI noted in a statement released on Wednesday, April 8.

The co-op credited his congressional testimony and other efforts with helping to establish the North Cascades National Park and the Pasayten Wilderness in Washington, as well as Redwood National Park in California.

In retirement, he sailed around the world with his two youngest sons. He was a lifelong advocate for environmental stewardship.

REI’s full statement is reprinted below.

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“We are deeply saddened by the passing of Jim Whittaker. Jim will be remembered as a true trailblazer and generous leader, and as one of the most important voices in the history of our co-op and the outdoor community.

“Jim showed the world what’s possible when courage is grounded in purpose. When he became the first American to summit Mount Everest on May 1, 1963, alongside Nawang Gombu Sherpa, he expanded our sense of what exploration can be. The achievement brought national recognition and helped carry REI into a new era.

“For REI, Jim’s legacy is at our very core. Hired in 1955 by REI Co-op co-founder Lloyd Anderson as our first full-time paid employee, Jim was an early leader and went on to serve as the second CEO from 1971 to 1979. During his tenure, he helped shape a co-op rooted in stewardship, humility, and a belief that time outside should be shared widely and protected fiercely. Under his leadership, membership grew from just under 250,000 to more than 900,000 at the time of his retirement.

“Long before outdoor advocacy was commonplace, Jim gave his voice—and his leadership—to protecting the places we love, reminding us that wild places endure only if we choose to care for them. His testimony before the U.S. Congress in 1968 began his congressional work and later helped establish North Cascades National Park (WA), the Pasayten Wilderness (WA), and Redwood National Park (CA).

“Throughout his life, Jim measured success not by personal achievement, but by the communities he built, the responsibility he modeled, and the countless people he inspired to step outside and discover something larger than themselves. Our hearts go out to his loving family, including his wife Dianne Roberts and his children, grandchildren, and great-grandchildren.

“We owe Jim our deepest gratitude for his leadership and are inspired by his example. It is now our charge to carry his spirit forward.”

Image courtesy REI