Greenpeace criticized Nike, Li Ning, Esprit and Limited Brands for not doing enough to eliminate toxic chemicals from their supply chains in its third annual edition of “Detox Catwalk” report.

The report groups 19 brands into three categories according to how much progress they have made against their pledge to eliminate hazardous chemicals by 2020.

Nike and Li-Ning were among  four companies listed in the “Faux Pas” category because they are “companies which originally made a Detox commitment but are currently heading in the wrong direction, failing to take individual responsibility for their supply chain´s hazardous chemical pollution.”

Adidas and Puma were among a dozen brands included in the “Evolution Mode,” which Greenpeace said have made progress but need to accelerate their actions to achieve their 2020 Detox goals.

Fast fashion companies Inditex, which owns Spanish retailer Zara, Italiy Benneton and Switzerland’s H&M chain were listed as “Avante Garde”  for having “credible timelines, concrete actions and on-the-ground implementation.”

Greenpeace launched its “Detox My Fashion” campaign in July 2011 to address this problem, asking the textile industry to urgently take responsibility for its contribution to toxic pollution. The campaign has secured global Detox commitments from 76 international brands, retailers and suppliers and has had political impacts, triggering policy changes in the Europe and Asia.